At World's End: 4 Trees Ecolodge

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We had heard about an implausibly remote and isolated ecolodge called '4 Pohon'. We were told it was not for everyone, only for those looking for a bit of adventure. That's all we needed. Located in the northwest center of Flores between Pota and Riung, 4 Pohon is in the middle of a totally natural environment. Off a dirt track that feels like the very end of the road, only a small sign announced its presence to the occasional passing car or motorcycle carrying a cloud of dust in their wake.

Driving through the front gate was like happening upon a small village. The resort is named after four great tamarind trees found at the entrance. The moment we entered the compound we were in the hands of Olivier ('Oli' for short), Roland, Renza and the rest of the friendly and attentive staff, all knowledgeable about Flores and Indonesia with plenty of stories to tell.

Away from traffic and neighboring villages, close to nature, it was at times eerily quiet with only a few cocks crowing and a complete absence of calls to prayer. Though it's definitely off the beaten track in an area of Flores that most tourists would never see, 4 Pohon is actually not that far from Riung (25 kilometers) and far more touristy Bajawa (100 kilometers).

Visitors are at first struck by the extent of the spacious, well-maintained grounds with its bungalows surrounded by grass lawns, flower, vegetable and herb gardens and banana, mango and other fruit trees, the whole area interlaced with stone walkways with unobstructed views of the surrounding hills. Along one side is the Buntal River, a convenient playground for children. Bathrooms, outside showers and collective areas are clean and efficient.

The individual bungalows with en suite bathrooms are made entirely of wood. A few guests sat on large decks reading while sipping tea or just taking in the environment in meditative silence. The furniture, made of teak from Java, has been fashioned by local carpenters. The lodge uses solar power. Don't expect air-conditioning, which is not needed anyway. The nearest telephone is three kilometers away on the beach.

The 100 percent organic meals prepared with fresh local produce were delicious and healthy, not easy to find in Flores outside of Labuanbajo. For breakfast fresh Aloe Vera juice and home made Nutella on toast is served. And here in the wilds of Flores, the kitchen even caters to vegan, gluten-free diets and makes its own ginger, chocolate, vanilla and coconut ice cream!

Why Flores?

Gateway to Lesser Sunda Islands, Flores offers unparalleled panoramas. Within reach of 4 Pohon are rivers, white sandy beaches, waterfalls, swimming holes and active volcanoes. The diverse fauna of the area include deer and eagles in the mountains and Varanus lizards and large wading birds along the rivers. Pre-Christian rituals are practiced in interior villages.

Flores remains traditional in its customs and its people greet visitors with charm and character. Catholics, living mostly in the inland areas, make up the majority of the population, while the Muslim Buginese have settled in the coastal areas. The two groups live in harmony with one another. The Manggarai district is the most traditional area of Flores where you can still see ancient ceremonies, handsome old architecture, totem poles in situ and statues, masks and other objects of divination believed to have the power to communicate with the spirit world. The ancestors (nenek moyang) are still revered in the daily lives of the Flores people in the prayers they offer up to Mary and Jesus.

Just south of Bajawa in Ngada District are small, picturesque mountain villages accessible on the road to Bena. First travel south to Wae Bela, then take the road uphill. Traditional villages are also found along the road from Boawae to Mauponggo. These adat houses of the island's central plateau are constructed of beams, tenons and mortise teetering on top of a bed of rocks, blending perfectly with the environment.

The 4 Pohon resort offers a number of excursions, both near and far, that by virtue of their remoteness, promise to be unusual and surprising. You'll see no tourists, only local, smiling people and waving children. Visitors are warmly welcomed. There is so much to see and do that most visitors regret not planning to stay for more than one or two nights. Olivier and Roland know the area well and can give tips on visiting the hidden places. Olivier is an expert rider and can recommend trips on near empty roads that will take you through dry scrub-land, low hills, steep ravines, banana plantations, rice field country, traditional villages, local markets, roadside lumber yards, waterfalls, rocky riverbeds, off-road forest paths and unnamed wilderness areas.

Climb the hills to the north to see endless horizons and seascapes. Of Flores' many volcanoes, the most majestic are Ranaka, Inerie and her 'brother' Ebulobo. According to legend, Ebulobo is male and Inerie is female. Other famous mountains are Egon and Kelimutu (190 kilometers from Bajawa) in the Sikka region with its astonishing colored lakes. 4 Pohon can arrange day treks, mountain bike and motorcycle rides and swimming, snorkeling and canoe/kayak trips. Bebek motorbikes are difficult to find on Flores, but you can rent one in Bali or Lombok. 150 KLX motorcycles can be rented in Labuanbajo for around Rp300,000/day. Matik motorbikes hire for Rp75,000 per day but are not really suitable for mountain roads.

Sixteen kilometers east of 4 Pohon are scenic waterfallsa large one above and a smaller one down a stairway. At the half-way mark on the road to Nbay-Angela (between Ende and Boawae) is a chapel and location of one of the most beautiful waterfalls in all of Floresalmost 80 meters tallat the end of a 40-50 minute walk through a varied landscape. Other well-known falls are found in the Labuanbajo area. Cunca Wulang is a group of waterfalls (Rp100,000 per person with local guide) 23 kilometers from Labuanbajo.

Closer at hand, it's just a 1.5 kilometers walk from 4 Pohon to the fishing village of Kas on a footpath through the hills. Only kilometers from the ecolodge is Labuan Kelambu, a 2.7 kilometers wide bay with a vertical coral wall and an entrance only 100 meters wide. A highlight is the full-day trip in one-man kayaks (Rp30,000 including lunch box) down the peaceful Buntal River to the village of Lampung at its mouth, encountering riverside wildlife, kerbau bolting off in surprise, women washing clothes, boys swinging on ropes from bridges and strolls along deserted beaches.

Practicalities

4 Pohon Ecolodge, Jalan Utara Flores, between Pota Riung and Desa Gololijung, Elar district, in East Manggarai, Flores NTT. Contact: Olivier Fargeix, mobile 081-236-23803, email: info@floresles4arbres.com; http://floresles4arbres.com/, http://hiddenasia.net.

Various types of rooms at different prices: Rp250,000/per person, Rp350,000 double in high season; Rp200,000-Rp300,000 low season. The private 35-square-meter wooden bungalows with terraces are comfortable and beautifully decorated. All rates include loan of pushbike and French breakfast (fresh bread, cake, homemade jam). Campers may erect tents for Rp60,000 and use all the facilities. The resort rents large tents with comfortable airbeds. The shuttle to and from Riung is Rp250,000. Transfers from Ende to 4 Pohon cost Rp1,200,000 (150 kilometers); from Labuanbajo, Rp2 million (260 kilometers).

Getting There

Flores is well served by air. Labuanbajo has regular flights with Trans Nusa and Wings. Pelita, Trans Nusa and Wings also serve Ende, nearer to 4 Pohon. Maumere is the largest airport in Flores and can accommodate Fokker 100s. Ruteng and Bajawa airports are in the mountains and flights are more irregular. The shipping company Pelni calls at Labuanbajo in the west, Ende in the south and Maumere in the northeast. Many visitors take a series of ferries from island to island across Nusatenggara to Flores. From Padangbai, Bali's easternmost port, the ferry to the seaport of Lembar in west Lombok takes 4-5 hours. From Lembar, local buses run to Labuhan Lombok in far east Lombok from where you take another ferry to the port of Sumbawa Besar (1.5-2 hours) on Sumbawa. From Sumbawa Besar, take the bus to Sape, Sumbawa Island's eastern harbor. From Sape, it's a 6-8 hour ferry passage to the fishing port of Labuanbajo in western Flores. To get to 4 Pohon from Labuanbajo, take a bus first east to Ruteng, follow the road north to Reo, then head along the coast to Pota, just 25 kilometers from the ecolodge. From the east, travel to Riung less than 25 kilometers from the ecolodge. All approaches are marvelously scenic. One can also access 4 Pohon from Riung by boat (Rp300,000). Depending on the tide, you'll be dropped off on the beach or at the mouth of the river. Call ahead to assure the staff is on hand to greet you.

Bill Dalton