JUST before dusk on Thursday last week they came one by one. The place, Puro Pakualaman, buzzed with life as men arriving on bicycles as old as themselves ambled leisurely to the western side of the puro (castle) and sat down on the green grass under the shade of trees whose leaves were withering in the dry season. "We're waiting for more to come for today's training session," said Saidi, one of the early birds.

Every Monday and Thu