EVERY day Amaq Raya looks for fallen branches around the outskirts of his village. For the last five years the Sasak dance maestro has not performed, because his gamelan is in such poor condition. “The price of a simple gamelan is about Rp15 million. But I still have the costumes,” said the 70-year-old man in the middle of last July.

His name was originally Saleh, but he is better known as Amaq Raya or Bapak (Father) Raya, because Raya is th