HE called himself Umar. The man from Pekalongan, Central Java had long hair and wore a white fez. Sporting a brown tunic shirt and a sarong, he sits cross-legged on the ground by a dome-covered grave. He quietly recites the Yasin, part of the Muslim prayer, in offering to the soul of Sunan Bonang, one of Indonesias Muslim holy men buried there.

It was quiet that afternoon at the Kauman hamlet in Tuban, East Java, the resting place of Sunan Bonang.