It had rained the night before and traces were still visible on the paved roads of Udupi. I arrived at this small town at 6:45am from Bangalore, which is some 500 kilometers away. It was all quite deserted. Rows of shops were still shut. I paid 90 rupees to stay at Vyavahar lodge, only a few meters away from the town's famous Krishna Temple. The trumpeting of temple elephants could be heard nearly every day from where I stayed, with the commun