AMONG thousands of packed spectators around the Fatahillah Museum in the midst of the Cap Go Meh parade last week, a little girl asked: "Mother, who is that god?"

She pointed to a bare-chested man with a red scarf, who together with holy statues was being carried in a sedan chair on the shoulders of dozens of men. The man cut his own tongue with a sword. Then he swirled the sword in front of him as if he was cutting his way through.

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