IT was the morning of October 18, 1937. A ship with the words Op ten Noort painted on its side was sailing from Tanjung Perak Harbor in Surabaya to Padangbai Harbor, Bali. As the vessel anchored in Bali, the passengers were taken to the regents office in Denpasar. There, archaeologist Dr. W.F. Stutterheim was giving a lecture on old buildings in Bali. After the lecture, he guided the participants on a tour to inspect temples located in several pl