David Jardine

“And in some corner of the Hubbub coucht”
—Omar Khayyam

IF you are traveling more or less due east along Jalan Casablanca in Jakarta you will notice on both sides of the road extensive Indonesian cemeteries. These are both Muslim and Christian.

You will also notice behind the posh Park Lane Hotel confectiously-painted apartment blocks, somewhat faded now. These hide from view the Dutch church Gereja Belanda alongside whic