AT first glance, "heroic expatriate" seems as much of an oxymoron as "jumbo shrimp", "military intelligence" and other old favorites. While many tourists come to the archipelago in search of adventure, few who settle in this stable, conservative society expect anything other than a quiet, comfortable life, whether behind the concrete walls of a Kemang marble palace or in a straw-roofed bungalow on a Balinese beac