AT the Flamboyan Market, Pontianak, West Kalimantan, Kusnasriyati Sri Rahayu deftly bought vegetables and assorted snacks. Her slightly strident soprano voice could often be heard when bargaining for goods and greeting vendors. "My wife is very loud, no?" said Amien Rais, smiling while commenting on Bu Kus—Kusnasriyati's nickname.

The presidential candidate from the National Mandate Party (PAN) was sitting relaxed with his r