ASHORT stretch of road in the heart of Jakarta was transformed into a mock graveyard last week. Dozens of plywood headstones were erected along both sides of Jalan Diponegoro just outside the drab but infamous building, number 58. A taxi driver slowed down at the sight of activity. He saw that the building, a fixture in national memory, had been covered in banners. Oh, ohh, he said. Does this mean more trouble, then? He addressed his question to