THE sun had set on the Villa Melati Mas complex, Tangerang, but things were still busy at the home of the late Iwan Siswara Rafei on Wednesday last week. Women went back and forth with food and drinks.

Men carried chairs and tables outside. Then they spread carpets and mats on the ground. We are preparing for the tahlilan (a gathering to recite verses from the Quran after someone has died), said Ibu Sunaryo, 60, the wife of the neighborhood head w