BEHIND the violet light peeking from the east of the horizon, the black shadow protruded at the end of the ocean. That is Berhala Island, the skipper said hoarsely. Morning was falling in the Malacca Straits. The lighting was vague. It had been one hour since the boat had set off across the sea from Nipah Panjang port, East Tanjungjabung, Jambi.

Several yards from the 65-hectare island, the skipper turned the wheel about. The ship turned, avoiding