BEATS from the rapai pass or large drums have echoed around Aceh this month. Over 200 men played these huge traditional drums for two days straight. The traditional music that marks harvest celebrations has reappeared after being lost for decades.

But this year there is a special reason for the rapai pass returning to the villages. Nyo ka jimeusue rapai urh, lageum dipiyoh jimeusue budee (If the drums are being played, the gunfire has ceased). T