SUHARTO was a familiar name to the residents of the hilly Dieng area around Wonosobo, Central Java. Once, before he became President, Suharto meditated at Semar Cave, one of the caves in the Dieng area. It was here that he received a spiritual message that he should act as a leader.

Semar Cave, or Mandala Sari Cave, believed to be the palace of Begawan Sampoerna Djati (Semar), is 2,000 meters above sea level. The location is squeezed between t