The appeal by the Pamekasan Police chief was clear: female traders in the market, hotel attendants and restaurant waiters should wear headscarves during the month of Ramadan. "It's meant to create an Islamic atmosphere," Kusairi told Tempo last week.

The penalty on violators was equally clear: a ban from working or selling. To enforce the regulation, police groups patrolled all corners of the largest city on Madura Island. So at Taman Arek Lancor,