In July, the town of Wamena gets quite chilly in the evenings. The cool air spreads across the Baliem Valley, gateway to the mountains of central Papua, with their snow-capped peaks. To many locals, it feels just right for a "warm" drink. But don't expect to get any alcoholic beverages here. "There's no drinking or selling of hard liquor here," said Dasilvira Lewotolok, a youth at a caf in a corner of the city. Similar comments were elicited elsewhere.