IN Kerinci, Jambi, coffee can be the window to look into the future. In every village, there are at least five ‘coffee makers’ the name for seers who read one’s fortune from their coffee dregs.

An example is Upit Palembang, who has opened practice for the past 20 years in her own home in Dusun Baru, Sungai Penuh, Kerinci. On a day in early March, Tempo paid a visit. Upit-whose full name is Yuli Perma and she once resided in Palembang, Sout