It was still early morning when Romauli Tarigan began hauling her two sacks of coffee cherries. The 46-year-old sat with other female coffee growers outside a coffee stall near Pasar Baru in Lintong Nihuta, the Humbang Hasundutan Regency, North Sumatra.

The women chewed betel while chatting. "We’re waiting for coffee collectors," Romauli told us.

It was market day that morning, meaning coffee growers had come from Lintong and Dolok Sanggul to