The man’s fingers worked deftly, submerging a sift with noodle in broth before pouring its contents into a bowl containing seasoning. He added a brownish sauce and meatballs before serving the bowl to a customer. “This is what I do every day now,” said Donny Supriadi when we met him at his restaurant, Baso Mastato, in Jalan Ternate, Bandung, West Java on Thursday, May 16.

The former vocalist of the hardcore punk band Jeruji swi