SIX men wearing sarongs could be seen on the porch of a small prayer hall under a cliff at the grave of Sunan Prapen on the afternoon of Friday, May 8. Three men were sound asleep, while the three others sat and recited verses from the Qur’an. In the yard of the grave, which is surrounded by a high wall, a shirtless middle-aged man was sweeping up some fallen leaves.

Tempo went up the step to ascend the embankment up to the grave area, but