THE muezzin's call to prayer echoed through the mushalla (small mosque) of the government office in the East Java district of Pamekasan, Madura one day last week. But few employees of the government office responded to the call for the zuhur (noon) prayer. Most stayed on to finish their work or to watch television during the lunch break. Only two rows of the faithful filled the mushalla.

Apparently nothing much has changed in Pamekasan since