Kuta is deserted around midnight in the chilly night air. The once clamorous tourist zone—usually packed with thousands of people—had only a handful of visitors on December 12. They came mostly from outside Bali, wishing to visit the blast sites. In the past few weeks, Japanese tourists have gathered, taking pictures of the rubble that was once Paddy’s bar and the Sari Club, now left vacant with only withering wreaths to remind