BAGHDAD in winter. The hour is before 5am. Enjoying the morning in a city in the middle of the desert—and when bombs are raining down—is not easy. The temperature can drop to zero degrees Celsius. Last Thursday, TEMPO reporter Zuhaid el-Qudsy was on his way to dawn prayers when the building was shaken by a series of explosions from missiles. "It was as if something shattered next to my ears," Zuhaid wrote in his report.

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