GO west some way. Ask the locals where the volunteers are trained. Don't forget to say you are a friend from Indonesia." Four days before coalition troops crossed the "red line", TEMPO reporter Zuhaid el-Qudsy caught a ride on a vegetable truck from the Baghdad markets to Khalis, a fertile agricultural district, around 65 kilometers to the southeast of the capital. The area is reputedly a training base for suicide volunteers. One hour's drive from