Syria-Iraq Border, March 27, 2003

It was stuffy in Syrias Aboul Kamal although it was winter. I wiped the perspiration from my forehead. I had to go through five inspection desks or interrogations before the Syrian immigration office eventually affixed its seal on my passport. They asked the usual questions: the names of my parents and my grandfather, my occupation, my address, my family status and my intention to visit Iraq.

I told them I inten