IT'S been two years since Abdurrahman Wahid lost his presidential seat. Just recently he flew from New York to Paris, then continued on to Purwakarta, in Central Java. At the age of 63, this chairman of PKB's (National Awakening Party) Council of Elders is capable of driving around Sumatra Island. Gus Dur—as he is familiarly known—frequently visits one pesantren (Islamic boarding school) after another, to seek the blessing of the ki