SITTING motionless, with his legs crossed and arms folded, Wanto looked like a statue guarding an entrance. His eyes, starting to turn red, were wide open and focused on a slab of black stone 4 meters in front of him. Occasionally, his head would stretch forward and he appeared mystified by some strange object. Sleepiness and an empty stomach failed to disrupt his ritual.

The quiet surroundings and the overpowering aroma of the cheap perfume als