THE leaf-green cart across from the PKU Muhammadiyah Hospital, on Jalan K.H. Ahmad Dahlan, Yogyakarta, often attracts attention. In addition to its prominent color, the menu it offers is quite unique: fried ketela in various flavors. “Bu, can I have four packs of barbecue flavor, please?” requests Nuning, a buyer.

In Yogyakarta, for the past year multi-flavored fried ketela (cassava) has been much sought-after by the young. It’s these leaf