RAHARTA is confused. Each of his hands is carrying a 5-liter jerry can of water from a well in Mecca. In front of him, a jumbo suitcase filled with souvenirs from the city. “How to carry the zamzam water without being caught by airport officials?” the member of a group of haj pilgrims from Bekasi asked his friend on Thursday three weeks ago.

Two airlines flying Indonesia’s pilgrims, Garuda Airlines and Saudi Airlines, limit cargo to 32 kil