Heavy rain was pouring when a truck entered the Plumbon toll gate in Cirebon, West Java on Saturday two weeks ago. Bearing sacks of rice, the truck drove on towards Cipinang Market in Jakarta. About 1 kilometer from the toll gate, the truck slowed down and stopped at a modest coffee stall. Didi, the truck driver’s helper, jumped down and hurried towards the stall, to ask a man sitting on a bench a question. After getting his answer, Didi return