The saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” seems to fit the warteg named Jadi Jaya-Warmo. Situated at the corner of Jalan Tebet Raya, South Jakarta, this 40-square-meter-food stall has no door and looks shabby. Dozens of raja bananas hang over a dining table. Nonetheless, every day this warteg is crowded by patrons coming by car, including a number of Jakarta celebrities.

Last Thursday morning, a row of cars was parked in front of Warmo�