Arun is quiet now. You can no longer hear the thundering of machines at the refineries of PT Arun Natural Gas Liquefaction (ANGL) in North Aceh. Only one of six processing trains belonging to Arun is still belching out smoke—a sign that the process to convert gas into liquid for export is still underway. Everything seems a lot fresher now because pollution has been greatly reduced. But, everywhere, the atmosphere is frightening.

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