IT is almost twilight in the village of Sambirampak Lor in the Kota Anyar district, near Probolinggo, East Java. You can see the reds and yellows of the setting sun over the trees. It is very peaceful. There's a light breeze that brings with it the very special aroma of cut tobacco leaves. This comes from rows of woven bamboo structures, each measuring 3 x 1 meters, which stand at 45 degrees from the horizontal, on both sides of the road.

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