Just like on other evenings, the Pool Grill that evening appeared as deserted as before. The sea breeze fluttered in from the beach, wafting past the chairs on which no customers were seated. "We only really come to life when there are parties like yes-terday's New Year's Eve event," said one waiter, "and after that, we're dead again."

The very tranquility of the Pool Grill, renowned as the best restaurant at the Le Meridien-Nirwana Bali res