ONE afternoon at the end of last November a ketinting slowly moved closer to the pier on Pulau Kumala on the Mahakam River in East Kalimantan. With the small boat securely tied to shore and after paying Rp15,000 in fare to the boatman, Sulaiman and his wife and small child stepped ashore toward the Lembu Swana Statue just across the Kartanegara bridge, the main link between Kota Tenggarong and Kecamatan Tenggarong Seberang. Together with doze