THE sign for the restaurant had long attracted my attention. Set in bright red, chunky letters at about 6 feet above the ground, it is only easy to miss if you are speeding by.

It says simply, “The Champa”. Off to the right is another sign that says, “The Indochinese Restaurant”. The Chams are a minority Malay stock people of Indochina who were once represented by a powerful pre-modern Champa kingdom, a force in the region to rival Srivi