I HAVE always taken Tapas to be typically Spanish. It conjures up visions of the micro-bars I used to frequent in the winding alleys of the El Tubo district of Zaragoza, where I taught English more than a quarter of a century ago. Counters crammed with bite-sized snacks, many of them tuna…how Spain has contributed to the massive depletion of the world’s tuna stocks can wait till another day…and calamares.

But here I was in Shanghai Blue 19