FOR six months the chirps of birds have gone from the corner of Jalan Barito, Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta. There are no more fish moving around in aquariums or colorful flowers. What remains in Ayodya Park, originally a bird and fish market, is a terrible mess. A fallen banyan tree is lying on a corner, with littered floors and water from clogged sewers overflowing into the street.

The location formerly brightly lit with neon lamps to attract