THE aroma of pandan and citrus leaves emanated from a small food stall on Muaro Padang Beach. The owner, Ani, 37, was cooking the leaves in a pan. As the water came to the boil she promptly dropped three green-turtle eggs resembling ping-pong balls into the saucepan.

Moments later the eggs were taken out and put into a plastic bag containing chopped pandan leaves and fresh orange slices. “For a less fishy taste,” said Ani, handing the boile