APPROACHING Manado Bay, the boat slowly glides over the water. The captain, Irwin Pontoh, peers over the edge. He intensely examines the hull of the boat, which is practically scraping the seabed. Fortunately, his experience of five years as a ferry `captain' means this boat and its passengers are safe. He can dodge sandbars and rock pinnacles that stretch as far out as 100 meters into the sea. Nevertheless, such journeys through the sea in a