THE men stand proudly on deck, scrutinizing the comings and goings of fishing boats and divers. They are the guards of Pemuteran Beach in Buleleng, Bali. Their costume is nothing like David Hasselhoff's, the star in red Speedos from the television series Baywatch. No, these men are wearing shirts and have bound their heads with special cloth, an outfit worthy of someone engaging in a customary ritual.

These are the security guards wh