PARIS Dawat started up the motor on his small boat. He then jumped into the river to turn his ketinting—as local people call these boats—to follow the flow of the Pilutut River to head to Pa'raye Village, West Krayan District, Nunukan Regency, East Kalimantan.

From the small jetty at Long Umung it would take almost an hour to reach Pa'raye, a small village on the outskirts of Kayan Mentarang National Park. Slowly, late that ove