THE wind blows softly through the coniferous trees causing the leaves to quiver and sprinkle dew on the ground. Although morning has just broken, a group of farmers in Dongi-Dongi have already begun breaking the soil and clearing the bushes. The rattling of dry leaves being trampled on adds to the noise.

Located within the Lore Lindu National Park in Central Sulawesi, Dongi-Dongi—long untouched by man—now teems with people. The al