THE sun has just set in the west, its soft light penetrating the not-so-dense forests at the foot of Mount Rinjani on Lombok Island, West Nusatengara. The heavy downpour on the mountain has reduced to a drizzle. Mardi, sitting under the protective cover of a grotto close to a fire burning to drive away mosquitoes, was taking a rest after a day picking papayas for sale at the market in the morning. The 38-year-old landless farmer working on 1,