The path from Salzburg, Austria, to Solo, Indonesia, is all about enlightenment for Eva Pilz.

"This is God," says the striking silver-haired woman, whose kebaya dress belies her European looks. She is laughing, but there is clarity in her purpose.

After all, this is a bona fide Hindu priestess. "I didn't know anything about Java or Indonesia but God told me to come here," she explains.

By any account, Eva's life has been co