Gus Dur must be the smartest man in Indonesia," says Kusano Yasuo, chief editor of Jakarta's Japanese daily, the Jakarta Shimbun. "When I spoke with him I felt like I was talking with someone from my own generation. He had studied Japan in his early twenties and knew so much," Kusano adds. As Jakarta correspondent for the Mainichi daily from 1980-1986, Kusano lived in Jalan Cendana 33, but he could not achieve the same familiar