THE 7-meter-high statue stands gallantly on a hill in Sobo hamlet, Pakis Baru village, Nawangan district, Pacitan regency: the figure of Commander in Chief, General Soedirman. Wearing a long jacket, a blangkon (headdress), his left hand gripping a wooden stick, he faces north. Before him is a vast field where walls and gates are built.

Soedirman, the modest warrior, is gazing at a modern historical tourist zone now under construction in his hono