THE hamlet of Ciseel in the village of Sobang, Lebak still has no electricity and can only be reached by motorcycle. Nevertheless, that was where much of the story written by Douwes Dekker alias Multatuli, took place.

Two weeks ago on Tuesday, at 4pm, rain poured down on the village. In the front of a house measuring 5 x 2.5 meters, 20 pairs of mud-splattered rubber sandals of various colors were spread out. The owners of the sandals were busy d