The train chugged along slowly as Tempo entered Dachau, a small town around 20 kilometers north of Munich, Germany. The train passed through empty winter fields. The trees no longer had any leaves, only faded brown branches. Hail and sleet clattered noisily against the windows of the train.

That morning, under the strain of snow and temperatures of around minus five degrees Celsius, the site of the old Nazi concentration camp this town is now infa